I was determined to use a free pattern for this month’s
#wardrobebuilder project. If you look around you can find a couple of vests and
camis available to download. Given that Colette have recently re-released their
Sorbetto, I thought I would give this
one a try. Whilst looking around on their site I also dipped into a couple of Seamwork patterns. I do subscribe to the magazine so used some of my credits for the Aurora tank and the Gretta vest. I've ended up with three quite different tops....read on to find out more about each of them. (Be warned, it's a long post!)
Sorbetto
I used a black georgette fabric for this vest. I bought it
from John Lewis for £6 a metre a while ago and have been using it for various
projects as trims etc. I paired it with some black satin bias binding to match
and finish the neckline and armholes. My aim was to create a vest that I could
wear in the very hot weather, that would be airy but also okay for evening too.
The pattern is a free download from here. There are three
versions – a vest, a longer tunic with side splits and a boxy top with capped
sleeves. It’s designed to be a loose fitting top for woven fabrics and the vests have quite
wide armholes. The download folder also has lots of differently graded pattern sizes which cater for larger measurements too. I cut a size 8, which is the size that matches
my measurements most, in Version 1 – the sleeveless vest. I have used this size
before on my Colette makes and it usually works well. There are only two pieces for this pattern, so it should be quite a quick make!
I went about constructing the vest as per the instructions.
I found the box pleat a little difficult I think this was mainly because I was
working in georgette which was trickier to press into place. The construction
of the top is very simple and you only really need to know a few simple
techniques to get going; sewing darts and using binding to finish edges. If I
had been working in a cotton this would have taken about an hour to sew from
start to finish.
Now, here comes my big mistake. I spent so long fiddling
with the box pleat I didn’t try on the vest before I sewed on the bias binding.
Woops. When I finished the top and put it on there was a significant fitting
issue. You can probably see from my pictures that this vest is way too large for me. The
bust dart is a lot lower than it should be so ideally I think I should have
made a size smaller than I did. I would probably have to make an alteration at
the shoulders or sides too. This is definitely the airy top I was aiming for,
I’m just not sure it is quite the same look that I had in mind!
This pattern was re-released because Colette have redesigned
their pattern blocks, which should have made me realise that what fit in my
previous makes might not fit now. After I made this vest I read an article fromAllie J which compared the old pattern with the new one. She makes some
interesting points that are definitely worth a read before you make one.
Would I make this pattern again? Probably not. I think there
would have to be a lot of alteration to get a good fit, which is something I
don’t have the patience for. If I loved the pattern enough I would try, but I’m
not convinced enough for this one.
Would I recommend this pattern? Well it is free, which is
always a bonus. I would just be wary that there may be some fitting adjustments
needed. Having looked at the measurements in more detail, and having had a better think about it, it's probably a good idea to use the bust measurement as the key guide. I imagine this is obvious to seasoned dressmakers!
Aurora
If I was going to make one of these vests again, it would be this pattern. I'm super happy with this make - partly because I got to use a £3 Sew Over It remnant that I picked up from their store on impulse. It's also very comfortable, particularly on very hot days!
Aurora is a Seamwork pattern, and a good use of magazine credits if you have them! You can still buy patterns if you don't subscribe to the magazine, but subscription is a good value option. As a Seamwork pattern it should be doable in 3 hours. I managed it in about that time, so for many more experienced sewers it could be a lot less. The shoulders are part of a back yoke element, and have gentle gathers which add nice detail. There is a box pleat at the back too, so the back still has lots of detail - not bad for a summer vest! You can make the yoke and shoulders out of a contrast fabric too for added customisation.
As I said, the fabric I used was a cotton jersey in the remnant basket. I had about a metre and just about squeezed out a size S from this. There are only three pattern pieces so this one is a good stash buster (especially if you are going with the contrast idea). The instructions are very easy to follow and have good diagrams that are clear to read. This was an enjoyable Sunday afternoon make that doesn't take very long at all. I cheated when hemming the bottom of the tank and used a zig zag to save time switching to a twin needle. I don't think anyone will ever notice.....
Would I make this pattern again? Definitely. I'd like to try a silk jersey for a dressier look. I also like the geometric print on the pattern instructions so will keep my eye out for a good value scrap to make another one from. I also like the length of the vest - though I often tuck them in I prefer longer line tanks and this one is perfect.
Would I recommend this pattern? 100%. I have no alterations or issues with it at all.
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