Fabric
I was kindly sent this fabric from this month's sponsors Sew Me Sunshine. You'll know from my previous inspiration post just how many gorgeous fabrics they have that are perfect for this pattern.
This is a beautifully soft rayon from See You at Six, and costs £7 per half metre (available here). It has the right amount of drape for this project or other floaty summer dresses and feels amazing. It is definitely one of the higher quality rayons that I have worked with, being both easy to sew and press too. It is fairly opaque, but I would recommend a slip if you were making a dress, just in case (but I do always tend towards caution to be fair). What wasn't high quality was the interfacing I used (I won't name the supplier but can tell you it was NOT from Sew Me Sunshine!). My interfacing was far too stiff and would have been more in keeping with the drapiness of the rayon if it was lighter and more flexible.
Pattern and Instructions
I downloaded the pdf version of the pattern, though a paper version is available too. There are only a few pattern pieces for each version, with the Version 1 ruffles acting as additional pieces to everything you need for Version 2. The instructions come as a separate pdf booklet which has some standard instructions, layplans and diagrams throughout to help. I found the diagrams clear and useful in figuring out some of the instructions (which are fine, I just like to double check when it comes to things like collars). The construction of the blouse was straightforward enough, partly due to the pattern drafting and the simplicity of the pattern itself. It relies on gathers and only a couple of darts for shaping. The collar is very easy to construct and attach too. It's not a beginner pattern, but if you have these skills already, it's quite easy (basically if you've done the Kalle for #sewmystyle, you can totally manage this).
There is a wide range of sizes - from EUR 35 to 52 (if you get a pdf), and it is meant to be loose fitting which makes it a little easier to make too. (More on sizing below)
Alterations
My alterations and final product weren't what I intended when I started, and mostly have occurred through accident rather than design.
Initially I cut a size 38 from my pdf pattern. My measurements fall a little more in the size 40, but the finished measurements from the 38 looked more like what I prefer to have as my fit. What I didn't think about is that the dress needs to be able to fit over the shoulders or hips because there is no zip, only the three buttons at the front. Therefore when I cut out my bodice panels I added 1cm to each side seam to give me extra room, just in case. I also added about 3 inches to the bottom of the bodice panels as I was contemplating separates at this point. When it came to sewing the darts I stitched them as per the pattern, then continued them vertically to the bottom of the bodice (which stopped the bottom becoming too tapered and tight). I tested getting the bodice over my head if it was attached as per the original design and just about got it on and off. I probably wouldn't if I hadn't added the extra cm at the sides. The shoulder and sleeves fit perfectly.
Once the bodice was constructed I experimented with a few looks, including the full skirt and a peplum using the flunce. I ended up on a straighter finish, drafting a wide hem band that echoed the collar band. (To do this I used the collar piece to draft curved edges of bands the length of the bodice panels plus 1.5cm at each end). These were attached in the same way as the collar.
Thoughts
I know it isn't either of the versions that should have been created, but I really love this and know I'm going to get a lot more wear from it.....loose waists don't suit me at all, and I could have added a tie belt but in general, separates get a lot more use in my daily life. The band at the bottom wasn't intended at any point - it's only because it would have been too short otherwise but it actually makes the blouse look a lot more polished. It adds a nice weight to the blouse and means that I don't have to worry about creasing from tucking it into jeans. The fabric is a beautiful soft colour, perfect for spring and summer. It also feels amazing - I would definitely look out for rayons from this supplier again. A series of happy accidents have left me with something that works well in my wardrobe.
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